Saturday, October 18, 2003

Khinzir and Ayam Talk

Khinzir and Ayam Talk


An Indonesian Chinese local told me that I could find good traditional Chinese koptiams (coffee shops) at Pasar Muara Karang. Early this morning I took a taxi there.

I have been to Muara Karang before; together with Pluit, the area is a Chinese enclave and boasts of good Chinese food. I have never ventured into the market area before but the scene there is similar to any Chinese market one can find in KL--one feels like one is in Cheras. Only the ubiquitous bajajs lent an Indonesian atmosphere to the place.

I had Hongkong-style porridge at one of the coffee shops; and here I found my almost perfect cup of tea with milk. As usual, I spent some time there snapping photos of my favourite subjects: bajajs and hawkers.

At Chinese stalls in Indonesia, you often see the word "babi" (pork) being emblazoned everywhere: Sate Babi, Bubur Babi, Babi Panggang. When I first came to Jakarta, I was a bit uncomfortable when Indonesian Chinese colleagues openly used the word babi without any hesitation. In Malaysia, we have shunned the word like taboo, and have even opted for the more euphemistic Arab equivalent, "khindzir".

"Let's go and eat babi today!", some of my colleagues would suggest quite loudly during lunchtime. It shocked me even further when some of my Christian Javanese friends proclaimed their love for char siu (roast pork). Balinese who are Hindus are famous for their babi guling. And I have a Batak colleague whom I swear would even salivate if he sees a live pig. It feels so strange sometimes to go together with my Christian Javanese, Batak and Manado colleagues for Bak Kut Teh in Kota.

The other word which Indonesians use quite unabashedly is "ayam" (chicken) which-- as in Cantonese--is slang for prostitute. "There are a lot of ayams there at BATS last night"--a female colleague would say, in polite conversation, without blinking an eye. (BATS--"Bar-at-the-Shang"--is a popular hangout place for bule expatriates).

What I cannot understand is how ayam can be considered less of taboo than the word perek. Perek is an Indonesian slang--short for "perempuan eksperimen" (experimental women)--to refer to morally loose women.

Initially I had assumed that since the use of the word perek is obviously more recent than ayam (eksperimen being derived from an English word), it has less of a historical baggage and sounds more euphemistic than the rather rude-sounding ayam.

But I was wrong, perek is never uttered in polite conversation. My female colleagues were shocked when I used it. Its effect is as strong as the word "bitch". Well, I guess after two years of living in Jakarta, I still have a lot to learn. And hopefully I'll remember not to use the word babi so audaciously when I'm back in Malaysia.

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